Spring/Summer 16 Oscar de la Renta
06:55
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| Debut collection 1965 |
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| Influences of Hispanic Culture |
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| SS16 Revival of the structured neckline |
The aim is clear; Copping is playing into
the market of fabulous women who require a vast array of elegant and gorgeous
suits and dresses for their overflowing calendars. In response to this he has
created a line of stunningly bold, delicate and sensuous dresses. Oscar put it
so simply himself, “Elegance is a discipline of life.”
Frill, lace, bold reds and espadrilles
command the runway; hair is simple and pulled back with delicate bows, allowing
statement earrings to speak for themselves. There is a beautiful juxtaposition
of delicate feminine lace necklines with bold patterns and luxurious silk
fabrics. There is a definite nod to sheer and an appreciation of the ‘cold
shoulder’ trend, which has been seen across the board, and has been the
erogenous zone of choice this season.
The ever changing erogenous zone is a
consistently fluid and integral part of evening wear as far back as the 1930s
when we originally saw the dropped back on evening dresses. James Laver a dress
historian claims, “It is the business of fashion to pursue it, (the erogenous
zone), without ever catching up to it”. Because of the fast pace of the fashion
world and the fact that the parts of the female body that are exposed by a
fashion trend lose their erotic power over time another part of the body comes
into play which has previously been hidden or deemphasized. Then the new part
of the female body on show becomes the new erogenous zone, this season we can
say that it is the shoulders and this is leading to some gorgeously intricate
necklines especially in this runway show.
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SS16 AW09
We can see the
correlation between the two seasons and the dedication to red and introduction
of black that has always been associated with luxury and elegance and always a
major focal point of Oscar de la Renta.
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Finally, a note on those gorgeously casual espadrilles which Copping has introduced to the
collection during his second line for the brand and it was a refreshing touch
and an innovative one paired with the elegant dresses, he said, “I thought
that would give the whole collection a different twist, just to have the
espadrille, which is the Spanish shoe…I thought it would be younger and
fresher”.
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